The workaday cagoule came to Paris Fashion Week thanks to Balenciaga, who showed theirs in a souped up “couture” cut. Elsewhere, sportswear accents abounded, from bomber jackets to varsity sweaters to rugby socks. How to wear it now? Just make sure it’s tempered with high-class, well-cut pieces.  

Kowtow to yet another Americanism: shearling (also known, but never acknowledged as, sheepskin) is here to stay, comprising entire dresses at 1205, beautifully cut coats at Céline and appearing in almost every other show this month.  

Duty calls: khaki army coats abounded at Prada, Miu Miu, DSquared2 and Burberry and will replace your trusty camel coat as the preferred outerwear option.  

Heritage looks were updated via unexpected, sometimes awkward, silhouettes. At Vetements (and Isabel Marant), Prince of Wales check got the Eighties school girl treatment; meanwhile tweeds were shot through with lurex to give Simone Rocha’s collection a precious sheen.  

Jumbo ear pieces were on every catwalk, from cobbled together masterpieces at Marni to giant metallic discs at Céline, to blown-up safety pins at Balenciaga to acrylic flashes at Stella McCartney.  

Proper party girls next season will be wearing sequins top to toe (as seen at Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Preen, Erdem, McQueen, Moschino, Valentino, Rochas… the list goes on).  

Everywhere, but feeling fluid rather than fusty. Velvet dresses in particular were the mainstay of many a collection: ruched and sexy at Preen, more ladylike at Prada, darkly alluring at Dries Van Noten.  

Nina Ricci’s came English-gent style, Marni’s had a low crotch and a large belt, Versace’s were super tight, and Balenciaga’s were paired with seriously frosty footwear. Prepare for the onslaught of the ski pant.  

Emphasis on the female form was elongated and gold-plated at Loewe. Elsewhere, Prada, Bottega Veneta, Balmain, Miu Miu and Givenchy all emphasised the waist.